Clearing Saws – Are They Worth It??

When do you use a clearing saw or brush cutter vs a chainsaw? What are the pros and cons.
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Tools I use daily

Leatherman Surge:
Hultafors Utility Knife
Head Lamp Petzl Pixa 3: (during winter time)


Clothes I use:
Merino wool / no smell long underwear:
Merino wool / no smell long sleeve shirt:


Other Tools We Use / Are Planning To Get

Hultafors Handsaw:
Hultafors Hammer:
Stanley Level:
Stanley Measuring Tape:

Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe:
Gränsfors Scandinavian Forest Axe:
Gränsfors Carpenters Axe:
Fiskars Splitting Axe:

Battery Driven:
Hitachi 18V Drill:

Knifes & Pruning:
Mora Knife:
Felco Hand Pruner:
Silky Handsaw:
Swiss Army Knife:

Garden Tools:
Dutch High Quality Garden Tools:
Fiskars Light Weight Rake:
Wolf-Garten Hand Trowel:
Soil Blocker:


Poultry Equipment

Bell Waterer: (we use a different brand)
Electric Poultry Netting:
Solar Energizer:
Poultry Leg Bands:
Water Nipples:
Ceramic Infrared Heater:


texas lajaw says:

I’ve been using a Husqvarna 555FX forestry saw. I’ve cleared nearly 30 acres of ERC trees here in the Ozarks. I’ve gone to using those 7″ & 8″ blades with the chainsaw teeth. They cut a bigger kerf and in sappy wood, that makes a big difference.

Pete F says:

I have absolutely no connection to the company but use an Australian Brush Destructor blade and find it replaces all 3 of the blades mentioned. The saw blade is archaic as all it does is fell the brush, then what? The brush destructor cuts the brush and then you go back over it to mulch it when it’s on the ground so the area is properly cleared instead of leaving crap everywhere. Although a chainsaw would be better, I also cut through 150-200 mm trees quite easily with that blade.

Not wearing chaps is probably fine for easy work like in this video, but for more serious clearing they help to prevent the inevitable debris from taking out one’s shins. The novelty of having a chunk of wood ricocheting off each leg wears thin very quickly!

itshonorbright alas! says:

Good to see you back!

Rod MacKinnon says:

I just purchased an echo commercial model . . . lots of power but terrible balance . . . I keep going back to my old HHT35 Honda . . . I shouldn’t have listen to the hype about commercial models . . . I used my Honda for six years clearing acres of land . . . cuts up to 2″ alders and has fantastic balance . . . alder and brush over 2″ you need a chainsaw, so all that extra power and weight is a waste.

nigel Mc Hugh says:

Have an Oleo-Mat 740 on the farm for almost 20 years. Very reliable make, much under rated.

Jeanette Waverly says:

Great info as usual, Simeon! Many thanks.

Vytautas Rudzianskas says:

I was using my echo trimmer at my property and my neighbour came to me and told me that I was doing it wrong. I was runing it continuously at full throttle and he told me that I should rev it
more, you know like some douchebags before the light goes green, vroom vroom. He told me that “it oils better that way”. After a quick search on Google my feeling that the jury is still out on this one, so what are you thoughts?

Ivan Kinsman says:

What diameter saplings does the 450 cut – FS 90 which I have does 3 – 4 cm I think. Triangular blade is definitely the most practical utility blade.

Jesse Fuller says:

Do they have any electric?

0j0nn says:

are you using the oregon blade w/o carbide teeth?

Mihkel Laansoo says:

Bought Echo SRM 420 brush cutter and with 350mm blade you can pretty much remove even trees with diameter of 20cm with ease. Its also much faster than 50cc chainsaw.But chainsaw is better for limbing those trees. Now I have no idea how I lived without it.

John McNerney says:

Nice video. I’ve owned a Jonsered brush cutter for about 10 years. I could not get along without it. I mostly use the saw blade, since I’m using it to cut a lot of invasive Buckthorn saplings: generally less than 2″ (5cm), but occasionally go up to 3 or 4 ” (~8-10cm). IMO, the useful limit on my saw when cutting something very hard like Buckthorn is about 3″ (~8cm). I can do 4″ pine easily. Mine is not the largest clearing saw, so I’m a bit limited by power, especially in the hardwoods.

I’d love to see you demonstrate it in use, especially tips for directional felling of saplings. I can do it, but I’m not all that good at it. Always looking for tips. PErhaps you could combine this with a video where you discuss what you are taking out and what you are leaving when you thin your forest for TSI work.

Hans Quistorff says:

I sharpen the blades I use on my Stil with a round file just like a chain saw tooth and each tooth works like a scythe in the grass but it also cuts like a chain saw with woody brush. Cutting heavy grass for hay I use it just like a scythe except I can under cut on the back stroke and sill windrow the grass to the left.
I have a video of my sharpening the blades but I have not edited it yet.

bootht99 says:

I prefer to use the triangular blade overall. It works amazing for saplings and willows, as well as smaller softwoods and even some birch and poplar. I stopped using the saw blade to maintain remote helipads (just clearings in the bush with maybe a log pad), and switched to the triangular blade, and never looked back. Easier to maintain an edge than the saw blade, and if it gets dull, you can flip the triangular blade and have a fresh edge to use. They do throw more debris than the saw, however.

Maybe for the initial clearing I would prefer the saw blade, but most vegetation would have to be trees with a diameter greater than 15cm. I swear those triangle blades are under rated!

Daybird Aviaries says:

I really need to get one of those brush cutting blades.

Chris Evans garden services jones Jones says:

Yes I’m fully trained and fully licenced to use a brush cutter

that surprised guy says:

The sawblades are realy fun to use
At school we’ve sawn down trees that were 25 cm in diameter
We even did a face cut
Looking back this was realy dangerous but fun as hell

Boarpan says:

I use it alot. If u get learn how to sharpen the blade it will cut throu anything its confronted with.

Rodney MacDonald says:

Great videos. Have you already done (or would you consider doing) videos on how you choose which trees are worth thinning, and which are worth keeping? I saw one of your videos on this topic where you discussed promoting your softwood, but I am wondering about how you think your hardwood (I think you have mostly birch)?

Per Thyrén says:

Glad to see you back 🙂

KILLKING110 says:

how goes the situation with the mining company have they backed down yet?

Moraren says:

Har kört en hel del med röjsåg, men har aldrig sett en med värmda handtag. Väldigt smart!

Moose Knuckle says:

I was begining to think of the worst. Good to see you buddy lol.

The Farmacy Seeds Network says:

I’ve used all of these… great assessment!

Robert Wood says:

How low do you cut your saplings in the field? … because if you leave the stump too high they can be dangerous (i.e. trip and fall on them)… but if you try to cut them too low, you have your blade in the dirt… any thoughts on this? Thanks.

Maciej Gronowski says:

Could you use it for coppicing willow or hazel?

The Hairy Farmer says:

I have a Husky 245R that I use to cut down a LOT of trees/bush up to 100-110mm – I use a tungsten tip circular saw blade, (yeah, I know), works beautifully…

Martijn Heeroma says:

I use the Still a lot, great machine, nice to see you back.

Silver Russell says:

I really like that blade cover. Where can I find one?

Terrie Friday says:

Thanks for sharing. We will be clearing out brush this was usefull.

Reed Hedges says:

Looking forward to your tips for using these. They are uncommon in the US, they are considered pretty “unsafe” by a lot of people I think? I have a cutting blade for a stihl kombi trimmer head but I don’t have the wide handle bars, do you think they are necessary for good control when using the brush cutter saw?

duane brown says:

Great video! Just remember folks, you cannot use a blade on a curved shaft trimmer because they have a flexible drive shaft and will twist apart but a strait shaft trimmer has a solid drive shaft that will not twist off and break……

Emil Muhrman says:

Du måste ha sågskyddsskor. Det blev lag på det i december 2012. Bra video annars.

HDB says:

Great for wild weed. But the cheap electric ones only last 2-4 years.

TheodorEriksson says:

In Sweden and neighbouring countries it has its well-deserved place, but in some other places it seems to be kind of unknown. Brush saws are very useful.

Rachell Moore says:

Thank you so much for your informative video.

Teagan Ryan says:

when I clear brush with the closest thing I’ve got to one of those, I find that it is best to wear my thick, double-knee jeans and a thick coat, as well as the head protection. it’s not to protect from the cutter itself, as with a chainsaw, but to protect from what it throws. a 3 inch x 0.75 inch chunk of BlackBerry at high speed doesn’t exactly feel pleasant.

Rad aMondo says:

Awww man…was hoping for some brush clearing action!

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